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SME3012ÀÇ °³Á¶
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Bronze Knife Edge Bearing for SME tonearms

A worthwile tweak for SME lovers

[Solist turntable, SME3009R src="http://www.tnt-audio.com/jpeg/sme_bearing3.jpg" width=678 E]? GM SPU Ortofon bearing?,
bronze>

[Italian version]


Product: Bronze Knife Edge Bearing for SME knife edge
tonearms
Manufacturer: target=top>www.analogtubeaudio.de, ANALOG TUBE AUDIO, Am Gitter 2, 27568
Bremerhaven, Germany
Approx cost: from 159 Eur/$ in Germany,
2003
Reviewer: Hartmut Quaschik -
TNT Germany
Reviewed: November, 2002 (updated March, 2003)

A while ago a friend pointed my interest to a tuning article
for old style SME tonearms, a bronze knife edge bearing. As I have always been
an afficionado of old SME tonearms, I wanted to give it a try. Waiting some
weeks patiently after ordering - note that these bearings are manufactured in
small batches - I finally got this masterpiece of CNC machining.

For testing I didn't want to involve my SME3012-2 installed on
my TD124, because it is running in the living room, and my lady is strictly
against modifying the living room hifi. So I tested it in a SME3009RM on a
Solist turntable. The turntable is a German specialist small production run
suspended deck from the late 80ies and got a lot of raves, soundwise it is
somewhere between Linn LP12 and Scheu. I took an Ortofon SPU GM/E cartridge for
testing.

As I already had SME parts from SME3009-ser2 improved, I had
the rare opportunity to listen to three different knife edge bearings on one
evening: the standard SME plastic varint, the extra pricey steel variant, and
the new bronze variant. I took the record from Jennifer Warnes "Famous Blue
Raincoat", which I didn't listen to for some months.

Doing the modification


alt="[The most difficult step: mounting the new bearing]" hspace=10
src="http://www.tnt-audio.com/jpeg/sme_bearing2.jpg" width=507 align=center vspace=10>

Exchanging the knife edge bearings took 30min the first time
and 10min the second time (see step 5 to see why). It consists of doing the
following steps:


  1. remove the yoke (that part of the tonearm, where the antiscating bar is
    attachted to) - Note: From here it is vital to be careful: do not tear the arm
    tube with brutal force, or you tear the internal cables.
  2. remove the rear bearing screw, then take off the rear tonearm stub, doing it
    with gentle force.
  3. remove the front bearing screw. Through this, the ground eyelet, which has
    been hold by that screw, will be released
  4. exchange the bearings, positioning the short end to the rear
  5. (this is a bit tricky indeed) you need pointed, but strong tweezers, which
    you put in the arm tube from behind, to hold the ground eyelet in a position,
    that the front bearing screw can be screwd in into it, through the bearing. OK,
    either you need four hands, or a bit luck or skills.
  6. (6-8) are reverse to steps 3-1, so they are obviously and they don't make
    you trouble.

alt="[SME bearings left to right: plastic - steel - bronze]" hspace=10
src="http://www.tnt-audio.com/jpeg/sme_bearing1.jpg" width=508 vspace=10>

How does it sound

The original steel knife edge bearing has a strong,
vivid, but also a bit artificial sound (like CD something sounds synthesized),
sililants are overly sharp and pronounced, giving some uncomfortable feeling.
There is a slight ringing detectable, sometimes reminding that the arm tube is
made from steel.

The bronze knife edge bearing has much better refined
sibilants, sounds more untroubled, at the same time also more dynamic, finer and
more natural. Voices benefit most, getting more realistic. Soundstage opens
further than with both other bearings and bass and treble information are better
defined, too. No ringing detectable here, this was a big surprise, as I did not
change the steel armtube, only the bearing.

The plastic knife edge bearing sounds homogenous and very nice,
but a bit lame and boring compared the first two bearings. Dynamics were a bit
flat, and bass flobby. Sibiliants have been presented good.

Conclusions (for SME 3009R)


When used with the bronze bearing, the SME 3009R sticks up to
the old war horse SME3009-2 of the sixties from musicality, better said flow and
naturalness. Until now, it was a decision of heart for Garrard or Verdier
owners: do I take the old SME 3012/2 which sounds so musical, or the new
SME3012RM which sounds cleaner, but also "cold". Most folks, who know the
differences opt for the old tonearm when they have the opportunity to get one in
good condition.

Do I recommend the bronze bearing ? Yes!

Owners of a SME3009R with plastic knife edge bearing, who
always thought of upgrading to metal knife edge bearing, they now get an option,
which is both cheaper (about 30% less) and sonically more rewarding. But the
bearing upgrade is also interesting for owners of the SME3009RM with steel knife
edge bearings, as the sonic benefits are way beyond that which you can buy for
the same investment in cartridges.

Follow-Up (Test in SME 3012/2)


alt="[Loricraft-Garrard 401 with SME3012/2 and Ortofon SPU GM/E]"
src="http://www.tnt-audio.com/jpeg/sme_bearing4.jpg" width=640>

Meanwhile, I have tested the Bronze bearing in the SME3012/2
(old style SME from the 60ies, with aluminium wand) and I was suprised to find
much different results. The SME3012/2 was mounted in a Loricraft-Garrard 401
with 12 inch plinth, which is a really beautiful setup. The cartridge was the
same like in the test before, when I used the SME3009R. When changing the
bearings, I eventually have torn an internal wire and had to rewire the tonearm,
then waiting some days, that the new cables run in. It is much more complicated
to do the bearing change with the SME30xx/2 series, as there is no access from
behind into the arm tube, normally. Then, there are early models, where the
front bearing screw holds an eyelet for the ground cable and an extra miniature
nut, instead of an eyelet with thread.

[Explosion view of early SME3012/2 arm tube] hspace=10 src="http://www.tnt-audio.com/jpeg/sme_bearing5.jpg" width=710 vspace=10>

I even changed the bearings several times to be sure, because
the results are quite strange. Now, to make a long story short: While the Bronze
bearing enhanced fine detail resolution and bettered the sibilants compared to
the old steel knife edge bearing, bass depth and soundstage got smaller, and
what is worse, the tonearm lost its charme, or in other words, its singing
quality.

Conclusions (for SME3012/2)


The SME3009R does have a 0.25mm thick stainless steel arm tube,
whereas the older SME 3012/2 is equipped with 0.5mm aluminium arm tube. Because
of this, the findings in this test cannot be simply transferred to the
SME3012/2, as it behaves different with the bronze bearing. Have in mind that
the old SME3009/2 and SME3012/2 are already sounding excellent with their steel
knife edge bearings. To summarize: the modification is recommeded for the series
R tonearms, but objected for the old series 2 tonearms.

Comparison of modifed SME3009R to unmodified SME3012/2


I was then curious, how better the SME3009R got in comparison
to the unmodified old tonearm. For this comparison, I used a standalone tonearm
base with SME hole, and listened on my Pluto 10A turntable. I used the same
Ortofon SPU GM/E cartridge. The modified SME3009R won in terms of bass
extension, treble resolution, resolution of fine detail, even PRAT was better.
The old SME3012/2 did hold against that a more comfortable, charming
presentation, with a seducing midrange, which always reminded me of a tube amp.
Though neither tonearm was as good as my href="../sorgenti/schroeder_e.html">Schroeder No.1 with Ortofon Rohmann
cartridge.

© Copyright 2003 Hartmut Quaschik
- http://www.tnt-audio.com




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